Friday, December 16, 2016

Hanoi Hilton, Vietnam (Saturday, November 19th, 2016)

We have come to our final day in Vietnam, and although we are tired and slightly homesick, it is hard to think about leaving this beautiful country.  We have come to love it's very friendly people and so many sights, sounds and smells that were foreign to us before we embarked on this adventure. 

As we ate breakfast on the 15th floor again this morning, we noticed that the pollution was unusually bad outside, so that meant it was going to be a mask day for sure!


Helen even decided to join me in my Hanoi fashion statement.


There was an optional tour this morning to the Thay Pagoda, but we decided to skip it and visit the Hoa Lo Prison instead.  The Hoa Lo Prison is better known world wide as the Hanoi Hilton, which is the nickname it received during the Vietnam war.  

When Americans think of the Hanoi Hilton, they think of the time that the American soldiers spent in the prison during the war, but even before the war, the prison existed, and was used by the French to imprison what they felt were rebellious Communists.  Today the museum is mainly about the period of time when the Communists were held there, and the torturous and cruel treatment they received from the French during the French reign.  

Only a small portion of the prison now remains, but it allows us to step back in time and remember all of the soldiers who spent time in this infamous prison and to reflect on a time in American history that we should never be allowed to forget!  

The entrance to what is left of the prison.




Other than the information provided by American soldiers upon their return home, we will never truly understand the treatment that American soldiers received during their stay at the Hanoi Hilton.  

I can, however, share with you some of the visuals the museum used to describe the treatment of the Communist prisoners.















There is a small section toward the end of the museum that talks about the American fighter pilots that were shot down and taken prisoner and accommodated at the Hanoi Hilton.  The Vietnamese government is very proud of the number of U.S. pilots it shot down during the war, and has very specific statistics on display in the museum.  It also has a picture, and specific information about each pilot imprisoned at the Hanoi Hilton. 






The North Vietnamese Army pulling John McCain from the waters of Tru Bach Lake, Hanoi on October 26th, 1967.





Although there is not much other information about the time our soldiers spent there, a portion of the prison stands in tact and allows us a glimpse of the types of conditions our soldiers may have really endured and some of the treatment they may have really received during their stay. 

As I was talking to my dad about this post, he found some information on pbs.org about some of the other prisons used during the Vietnam War.  I found the comparison of the prisons very interesting and thought it would be helpful to share since the only prison we really hear about is the Hanoi Hilton.

POW Prisons in North Vietnam 

Many prisons used to hold American POWs were in close proximity to Hanoi, with a few of the more well known jails located directly in Hanoi. American prisoners spent years living in these uninhabitable cells enduring the pain and suffering oftentimes inflicted upon them by the Vietnamese guards. With the end of the war and the release of the POWs, many decided to tell their stories about life as a prisoner in Vietnam.

Map of prisons in HanoiAlcatraz (Ministry of National Defense)
Perhaps the worst of the North's prisons, this facility was built to house POWs the North Vietnamese wanted to isolate. The prison was as close to a dungeon as any prison in the North. The tiny cells were sunk underground with the only ventilation coming from pencil-sized holes above each door and recessed space below them.
Zoo
Opened in September 1965 just southwest of Hanoi, the Zoo had all the windows in the cells bricked up shortly after opening. The rooms were padlocked but had a slight give that allowed prisoners to peek out. This feature also allowed guards, or livestock at the prison, to look in, a feature that earned the prison the name "Zoo."
Dirty Bird (Power Plant)
This Hanoi prison opened in October 1967 in the vicinity of the Yen Phu thermal power plant in northern Hanoi. The North Vietnamese publicized the location of the prisoners, in what many believe was an attempt to discourage U.S. bombing of the plant and the area. Prisoners called the place "dirty bird" in honor of the camp's black dust, debris and general filthiness.
Plantation (Citadel)
Hanoi's Citadel, the North Vietnamese "showcase" prison, had once been the home of the colonial mayor of the city. Part of the facility was converted to a village of clean cells, garden patches, and scrubbed corridors where captives were photographed and shown to delegations to convince visitors that the North Vietnamese treated prisoners humanely.
Hanoi Hilton (Hoa Lo)
American POWs gave Hoa Lo, perhaps the best known of all the North's prison camps, the ironic tag of "Hanoi Hilton." The French occupiers of Vietnam had built it at the turn of the century. Speaking about the prison's rusted shackles and ever-present rats, Lt. Ronald Bliss reflected: "You could look at this place and . . . just hear the screams of about fifty years, because it was -- it is -- a hard place." Some of the most brutal torture of Americans took place here in specially equipped rooms.

Map of prisons in North VietnamBriarpatch (Xom Ap Lo)
Located about 35 miles west of Hanoi, this prison was opened in the late summer of 1965 to accommodate the overcrowding at Hoa Lo ("Hanoi Hilton"). The prison had no running water or electricity and the diet was so severe that prisoners kept here for long periods inevitably suffered from malnutrition.
Camp Hope (Son Tay)
Located 20 miles northwest of Hanoi, this prison opened in May 1968 to alleviate overcrowding in Hanoi's jails. American prisoners were also removed from Hoa Lo to undermine POW camaraderie there. The camp was filthy and the cells had little ventilation. Rats ran rampant. Yet, many occupants here were spared the more brutal torture routine at other camps.
Portholes (Bao Cao)
Located along the southern coast of North Vietnam, "Portholes" was typified by tiny cells that looked like chicken coops. Most were three feet wide, six feet high and six feet long. The cells were bare except for wooden leg stocks, restraints used to punish uncooperative POWs.
Faith (Dan Hoi)
The Dan Hoi prison, just northwest of Hanoi, was actually six compounds in one that imprisoned 220 prisoners at its peak. Treatment here was generally more humane than at the other POW camps. Many of the prisoners transferred from other facilities found the freedom to congregate, permitted at Faith, exhilarating.
Farnsworth (Duong Ke)
This facility opened south of Hanoi in the summer of 1968. Farnsworth guards' treatment of officers in the U.S. armed forces was especially brutal. American officers were kept in small, windowless rooms painted black and were seldom allowed outside. The North Vietnamese treated the enlisted men better, keeping them in larger groups and giving them regular exercise and recreation after 1970.
Skid Row (Ban Liet)
Prisoners named this prison, located a few miles south of Hanoi, after its filth and poor condition. After 1971 the prison became a place of banishment for POWs who did not cooperate at Hoa Lo prison.
Dogpatch (Loung Lang)
Located in the northwest corner of North Vietnam, Dogpatch was colder, damper and darker than Hoa Lo. Its cells had small slits for windows, thick walls and ceilings, and were crammed with up to 20 prisoners. One prisoner there recalled that the camp had "about all the qualities of a dungeon except that it was not underground."
Mountain Camp (K-49)
The name given this camp reflected its location in rugged mountain terrain just north of Hanoi. Although prisoners were isolated from one another, the basic conditions were better than in many other camps. Each room had a table, stool and toilet and, a rarity in almost all the POW camps, a straw mattress bed.
Rockpile (Noi Coc)
Despite its grim name, this prison, located 30 miles south of Hanoi, was comfortable compared to other facilities. The sleeping quarters were larger than most, and prisoners were given a dining room, a separate latrine and even a bathing area. Prisoners were allowed to move around the camp and mingle, a freedom almost never granted elsewhere.

This was the last chapter of our Vietnam War live history lesson.  It has touched us in a way that is hard to describe, much deeper and more difficult than we ever expected. What we have learned over the last many days will remain in our minds and hearts forever.  

Of all the posts I have written about our time in Cambodia and Vietnam, this has by far been the most difficult.  

My dad served in the U.S. military, and is a veteran of the Vietnam War.  Several of my his friends were shot down over Hanoi and taken prisoner by the North Vietnamese Army.  After spending time at other Hanoi prisons, they both ended up at the Hanoi Hilton, where they spent their time as prisoners of war until they were released after the war ended.

I remember wearing POW bracelets for them as a young girl, and I remember the impacts of the war on my life personally, living on a military base on the west coast.  I can sympathize, but will never be able to empathize with what all of these very brave soldiers went through for our freedom.  I deeply thank them all...especially my dad!

We now have a son (in-law) in the military and are so proud of his service and choices in life, but having a chance to visit this prison left a deeper mark on us then we could have ever imagined!

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