Elephants, Orchids and Butterflies (Thursday, November 13th, 2015)

This is the day we have been waiting for.  This morning we were out of the hotel and on our way to the Mae Sa Elephant Training Camp by 7:30 a.m.  

The late nights and early mornings are starting to catch up with us, but we just aren't willing to miss some of the activities being offered.  It was about an hour drive from Chiang Mai to the beautiful camp in the jungle.  Many in the bus were struggling to keep their eyes open as we road along.  We were glad we had gone to breakfast early so we could drink several cups of good strong coffee.  When we arrived at the camp, we were taken back by the beauty of the jungle, and our anticipation of seeing the elephants.  

We had a few minutes to feed and enjoy the elephants before our scheduled time of 8:30 for our rides.  The elephant we chose to feed was kind of off by herself, and was an older elephant.   She was so sweet as was her elderly Mohout (trainer).  You could tell the bond the two of them had as we approached her.  She could have the bananas but not the sugarcane.  She didn't have many teeth so she only got a soft diet.  It was refreshing to see such an elderly beast being so well taken care of.

The little one is getting friendly

Very friendly!

This old girl really like our banana's...I think we fed her three large bunches. It was very clear that her Mahout really appreciated all the attention we were giving her!

The cost of the elephant camp was included in our excursion price, but riding the elephants was an additional 1200 baht (~$35 US) per elephant. If two people combined were within their weight limit, they will allow you to ride an elephant together.  Otherwise, you are asked to please ride alone.  This is for the safety and wellbeing of the elephants, which we definitely agree with.  The elephants we will be riding are Asian elephants, they are distinguished by the shape of their ear (it is shaped like India), and their flat backs, which are square instead of sloped.  

Asian elephants are very smart, and can be taught many things throughout their lifetime.  The gestation of an elephant is 21 to 22 months, and when an elephant delivers her calf, there is a midwife elephant that immediately takes and cares of the baby after it's birth.  This prevents the mother from kicking and killing her calf accidentally right after birth.  Elephants eat about 200kg of food a day and drink about 60 gallons of water.  Thailand has about 3000 domesticated elephants, half live in training camps like we visited and half live in sanctuaries.  This allows them to better protect the Asian elephants from poachers.

The elephant trainers are called Mahouts, and typically there is only one Mahout for an elephant during it's lifetime.  This is because of the bond that is formed between an elephant and it's Mahout is so strong.  When elephants are about 3 years old, they will be separated from their mothers and their training will begin.  They will not be introduced to the harness and saddle until they are about six years old.  

The young elephants are a solid dark color and and will lighten in color and develop spots as they age, just like we do!  In the old days of Thailand, they used elephants for work.  The prime age of work elephants was 15 to 22 years.   After that point they would be moved to easier, less strenuous work.  The elephants were treated very well by their Mahouts.  They typically live and sleep together, and the elephants are treated like the Mahouts child.

Mike, our tour director, told us a story that happened about 10 years ago.  A Thai elephant was walking through the jungle with his Mahout, and stepped on a land mine left over from the the war. His Mahout did everything he could to save his elephant. Others were also very involved in this rescue effort The elephant now has artificial legs and lives in the Lohlong elephant hospital.  

As Steve and I were being assigned our elephant, they wanted to see both of us because the elephant was older than some of the others.  Our ride on the elephants lasted about one-hour, and wound around through the jungle and through a river.  

Sugar cane we brought for our elephant.

Food and  treats!

When we would go down a hill, the mahout would tuck his legs behind the elephant's ears to keep from slipping off

The jungle views

Brian and Humana

The maternity ward

Enjoying the river

Water Fight!!

The life of a mahout

The elephants are very gentle and playful.  We even enjoyed a little water fight in the river as a few of the elephants were playing.   really enjoy their time in the river.  Our female elephant even got in a little trouble because her Mahout couldn't get her out of the river once she went in.

After our jungle ride, we were treated to watching the elephants bathe in the river.  You could feel their excitement as they were lead in to the cool water.  Several of them immediately laid down and started rolling, others just played in the water. 

A short video of the group taking a bath (Thanks to Chris)!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r6UUGL8b_1A

Look at the size of the tusks on this guy!

When we were finished watching the baths, we headed up to the stadium for the elephant show.  The elephants are truly hams, and did everything from play harmonicas, play soccer and paint pictures.  It was one of the most amazing things I have ever seen.

The trainers at the camp teach the elephants to paint, along with other things.  One elephant can usually learn to paint two pictures.

Then at the end of the show all of the elephants ask for donations

And they are pleasantly rewarded

I was really prepared for mosquitos this morning at the elephant camp in the jungle, since we would be riding elephants through the jungle, but to my delight, there weren't any at all!  I was so thankful as I usually get eaten alive by mosquitos if they are present!  

After the show, we left the elephant camp and headed back down the road to the Bai Orchid and Butterfly Farm.  

We had an amazing buffet lunch there, with some of the best food we have had in Chiang Mai.  

Then we had time to explore the orchid farm

And the Butterfly Farm

After all of these very unique and amazing experiences, were were treated to several more things on the way home.  In the afternoon we visited the Sankampang Street center of handicrafts, for on-site demonstrations on how jewelry, silk and umbrellas are made

First we were taken to a gem factory where we watched the setting gemstones into fine jewelry.  Then we had a chance to go through Thailand's largest fine jewelry store, and purchase things if we were interested.  

We were then taken to a silk factory where we learned about silk making and had the chance to buy silk items if we wished.  It takes 4000 silk threads to make a one meter width of silk, and a silk weaver can weave approximately four meters a day of a fairly easy fabric.

Silk moths

Silk Worms

The boiled cocoons are then used to make the strands of silk

The strands are dyed and spun onto bobbins

Weaving

And last but not least, we were treated to the umbrella factory, where we saw Thai umbrellas made from start to finish.  The paper for paper umbrellas is made from mulberry bark that is dried, then wetted down and mashed into a pulp.  The pulp is then put in water, and strained back out with a fine mesh, by hand.  It is then allowed to dry and can be pulled off in sheets.  The handle and push up of the umbrella is all made of bamboo.  The bamboo is hand carved in several steps.  they then put it together with string, and apply glue which will hold the paper sheets on.  The umbrellas are then hand painted with a variety of gorgeous designs.

Using a lathe to make the handle pieces

Mulberry bark is used to make the paper

The pulp from the mulberry bark is removed from water using a screen

After it dries, it is removed from the screen

Then the braces are all hand cut

Notice her finger protection?

Then they are drilled with this hand drill.  She pushes it against her leg to make it spin

The string is woven through the drilled holes

More strings are woven in

The skeleton of the umbrella is ready for paper

Applying glue to hold the paper on

Applying the paper

All they need now is paint

When we finished at the umbrella factory, we headed back to the hotel for some much deserved down time, and were free to do whatever we wanted for dinner.

No matter how many times I see kids on motorbikes, I just can't relax about it, but it is just a way of life in Thailand.

Aah, the life!

Fast food for dinner at the food court.  Green curry and Paneng curry.  So Good!  We love Thai fast food!  We paid 100 baht (~$2.75 US) combined for both bowls and two plates of rice. It was more food then we could eat! 

The night market is a hopping place!

Our hotel, right in the heart of the night market

Incredible talent.  He's drawing this from a picture and it's spot on.

Amazing! And by morning this will all be gone and the sidewalks will be empty.  It is set up every night!

View from our window.  Notice the  McDonalds and the lights of the night market stalls

In closing, we know that everyone has strong opinions on elephant camps and sanctuaries, as do we.  We went into today very apprehensive and excited about how it would all play out.  From our perspective, based on what we both saw (be assured we watched very closely), we did not see any abuse or mistreatment of the elephants. The elephant we were riding decided that she was really enjoying her time in the river.  The Mahout talked with her firmly and pushed on her ears with his legs to encourage her to move along. After several other elephants passed us she decided it was our time to move.  So we saw how they worked together not only in the good/easy times but also when they weren't on the same page about what was to happen and when.  

What we saw were strong relationships between the trainers and elephants.  A relationship that we saw was one of love and respect for one another.  Both sides understanding their livelihood is based on the other.  We heard from others in the group that this wasn't necessarily their experience but it honestly was ours.  A great day of new experiences, once again!